11 Under-the-Radar Fine Jewelry Designers We’re Obsessed With

| By Taylor Alber
Some names are simply too good to gatekeep

We spend a lot of time looking at jewelry around here, and every so often, we come across a few names we simply can’t stop thinking about. These are designers doing genuinely interesting things with fine jewelry, many of whom still feel relatively under the radar, though perhaps not for much longer. Of course, “under the radar” is admittedly subjective. You may already know a few of these names (and if you do, excellent taste), but we’re willing to bet there’s at least one you haven’t come across yet. So, here are the 11 fine jewelry designers we’re particularly excited about right now. 

Lucy Delius

Lucy Delius may have only launched her namesake label in 2022, but she’s hardly new to the jewelry world. After more than 15 years working behind the scenes in the jewelry industry, the London-based designer eventually turned that experience into a collection of her own. There’s a vintage influence running through the pieces, but Delius plays with it in a way that feels completely fresh. Chunky, elongated links are mixed with softer rounded shapes, while diamonds turn up in places you might not expect. Even the more delicate pieces have something about them that makes you look twice. They’re pieces you could easily wear every day and mix into whatever is already in your jewelry box, though they’re certainly not going to disappear into the stack. And if you happen to be in London, Delius now has a shop on Ledbury Road worth knowing about.

Megan Brown Jewellery

Megan Brown’s jewelry is seriously unique. The London-based designer weaves fine strands of precious metal together, building up textures that give her pieces a look you’re unlikely to confuse with anyone else’s. Some have the boldness of an ’80s statement piece; others could almost pass for something much older, with Brown bouncing between references through the way she works the metal. Diamonds and gemstones occasionally break up all that gold, too. Her connection to textiles runs deep: Brown grew up around her family’s century-old textile mill, and today, weaving has become the defining technique of her own work. The Woven Bombé rings are especially good, turning all those individual strands into these wonderfully substantial, almost oversized forms.

Erede

Art Deco lovers, this one’s for you. Erede takes cues from Art Deco, architecture, and modernist design, but the references show up in unexpected ways. Diamonds sit almost off-center, bands curve into exaggerated shapes, and familiar silhouettes are pushed just far enough to feel entirely new. Founded by longtime friends Talia Shuvalov and Jeramie Hotz, who split their time between Sydney and New York, the brand works with recycled 18-karat gold and platinum alongside lab-grown stones. Even the name has a little more behind it: erede means “heir” in Italian, a nod to the idea that these pieces should eventually belong to someone else in the family. It’s a very modern take on something meant to last for generations.

Bella Clark

If you're dedicated to perfecting your signature ring stack, allow us to introduce Bella Clark. The Melbourne-based designer has been making jewelry under her own name since 2019, and her rings are a particularly fun place to start. Shapes and textures play off one another in a way that makes adding just one more feel entirely reasonable. There’s a sentimentality behind Clark’s work, too: she draws inspiration from the women in her life and even works with clients to turn family heirlooms into something new. Nearly everything passes through Clark’s own hands along the way, right down to packing up the finished piece to send it out. Somehow, that makes receiving one feel a little more special.

Studio Mullins

Before launching Studio Mullins in 2020, Shelby Mullins worked in interiors and architecture before turning her eye to jewelry. The Alabama-based designer first became known for her engagement rings and custom heirloom redesigns, but her full collection is just as good. Her eye for shape and proportion carries through to everything she makes. Take the Evie Earring Stud, inspired by her Evie engagement ring design and reimagined on a smaller scale. Then there are the long, dangling diamond earrings that make a little more of an entrance. They may be made for a special occasion, but we certainly wouldn’t wait for one.

Sarah Eisman Studio

Jewelry designer and engineer isn’t a résumé combination you come across every day, and Sarah Eisman puts both sides of it to work. The Australian-born, New York-based designer creates pieces that feel almost engineered into place, with solid, substantial forms broken up by just the right amount of diamond or color. There’s a weightiness to the designs, even visually, and a distinct look that makes an Eisman piece fairly easy to spot once you know it. Some are quite technical, too. Her Lith earrings use a linking system that allows them to shift between a classic hoop and a drop, giving you two completely different ways to wear them. Eisman works primarily in 18-karat gold with diamonds and colored stones, and her designs have also made their way onto Moda Operandi through trunk shows.

Claudia Ramírez

Now this is what we mean by under the radar. Claudia Ramírez’s made-to-order jewelry feels like the kind of discovery you’re almost reluctant to share, with much of the collection living quietly on Instagram and finding its audience through word of mouth. Diamonds feature heavily, both natural and lab-grown, but Ramírez rarely lets them float delicately on their own. Thick gold settings and geometric shapes give them some weight, whether it’s a pear-shaped diamond ring or a particularly good tennis bracelet. There’s plenty to choose from, but the strong proportions make it all feel like it came from the same hand. Consider the secret officially out.

Fiametta

There’s something very cool about Fiametta’s take on fine jewelry. Founded in New York by Merill Hollander, the brand works largely with lab-grown diamonds and recycled gold, creating pieces that feel special without needing to be reserved for a special occasion. The chain necklaces are particularly good for layering, while rings from the Spiral of Strength collection curl around the finger in a way that makes a classic diamond feel decidedly less expected. It’s fine jewelry that doesn’t dictate how you have to wear it. A diamond necklace with an evening dress? Of course. Under a sweater on a Tuesday? Even better.

Isabel

Isabel Delgado has range. The New York-made jewelry can lean wonderfully old-world, with diamond collars and sapphires that bring all the glamour you’d hope for, but the brand is just as comfortable experimenting with shape and material. The Catalina spiral studs, for example, take inspiration from the Nautilus spiral and artist Isamu Noguchi, turning gold into concentric curves around a single diamond. Elsewhere, the Sophia collection brings lapis, moonstone, and pearl into the mix, with pieces that feel a little easier to work into the everyday. It’s this ability to go grand when the moment calls for it and then completely change direction that makes Delgado one to know.

Shola Branson

For those who like their fine jewelry with a little more glamour, meet Shola Branson. The London-based designer founded his namesake brand in 2018, creating substantial pieces in satin-finished 18-karat gold with plenty of diamonds in the mix. Rings scattered with stones in different sizes are particularly good, giving all that weighty gold a little extra shine. There’s an almost ancient quality to some of his work, which makes sense given Branson’s early experience working with antique jewelry, but his pieces still feel entirely of the moment. This is fine jewelry with a little drama to it, and we’re very much here for it.


Darius

There’s a weight to Darius jewelry that you can almost feel just by looking at it. Handcrafted in Los Angeles, the pieces have these substantial gold forms that can look ancient at first glance, but there’s something incredibly cool about the way they’re worn now. The brand uses a signature 24-karat gold finish, giving the metal a rich, almost softened appearance, while antique diamonds and colored stones are set into rings, oversized chains, hoops, and pendants. Some pieces feel almost archaeological, others more sculptural, but none of them are particularly shy. Darius is the kind of jewelry that can carry an entire look on its own.

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Category: Style | Fine Jewelry
Author: Taylor Alber
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