If there’s one person who knows how to vacation, it’s Dua Lipa. The newlywed singer has become almost as well known for her enviable summer travels as she is for her music, with the Balearic Islands making a near-annual appearance. This summer was no exception. “There’s no summer without touching my favorite island at least once,” she captioned her latest Instagram photo dump. And while Ibiza may get most of the attention, her trips frequently include time on its much smaller neighbor, Formentera.
Just a short boat ride away, Formentera has long been the quieter alternative to Ibiza. There’s no airport, and the beaches are some of the best in the Balearics. Its growing popularity has brought more hotels and restaurants to the island, along with the inevitable concern that some of its charm might disappear in the process. Luckily, Formentera still feels distinctly like Formentera. Meaning, it’s still very much the relaxed little island people fell in love with in the first place.
So whether you’re staying for a few days or coming over from Ibiza for a swim and a long lunch, here’s where to eat, stay and explore in Formentera, including a few spots that have earned Dua Lipa’s stamp of approval.
Where to Eat
Es Molí de Sal
It only feels right to start with one Dua herself has visited. The singer has even shared a glimpse of her meal at Es Molí de Sal on Instagram, but this is hardly a new addition to the island’s restaurant scene. Set inside a converted 19th-century salt mill on the coast near Playa de Illetes, it’s one of Formentera’s classic lunch spots, with tables overlooking the water and a menu heavy on seafood, rice dishes and very good paella. The lobster pasta is another favorite, and a dish you’ll quickly notice popping up on menus across the island. Come by boat and the restaurant even has a complimentary tender service to bring you ashore. Lunch can easily stretch into sunset here, and we’d recommend letting it.
Beso Beach
If your idea of a European summer involves a beach club and eventually finding yourself dancing on a table, this is the reservation to make. Beso Beach brings a little of Ibiza’s party energy over to Formentera, with lunch gradually getting louder as the afternoon goes on. Order the rosé, enjoy the music and don’t expect to stay seated the entire time. It’s one of the island’s most popular reservations during the summer, so this is definitely not one to leave until the last minute.
Chezz Gerdi
Long lunches are something of a recurring theme in Formentera, if you can’t tell by now, and Chezz Gerdi might be one of the best places to embrace one. Hidden away at the end of a wooden beachfront path in Es Pujols, the restaurant has perfected that particular kind of lunch that starts around 2 p.m. with seafood and pasta, progresses to another bottle of wine and somehow ends several hours later. The music is always good, the crowd is fun and despite being decidedly high-end, nothing about it feels particularly serious. You can also arrive by boat and take the restaurant’s tender in, which only adds to the occasion.
Can Carlos
Eventually, you might want dinner, and Can Carlos is where we’d go for it. Set inland in Sant Francesc Xavier, tables spill out into a beautiful garden courtyard that becomes candlelit once the sun goes down. The menu mixes Italian and Mediterranean influences, with everything from tuna carpaccio and oyster tempura to spaghetti with fresh local shrimp. It’s elegant without feeling overly formal and easily one of our picks for a romantic dinner on the island.
Can Carlitos
If you’d rather have your romantic dinner back by the water, Can Carlos has a sister restaurant for that. Can Carlitos sits directly on the coastline near La Savina, with celebrated Catalan chef Nandu Jubany behind a menu built largely around sharing. Rice dishes and traditional tapas take center stage, best ordered for the table while the sun goes down over the water. It’s a little more relaxed than its sister restaurant, but no less worthy of an evening reservation.
Es Còdol Foradat
At this point, you may be wondering how exactly you’re supposed to choose between all these beautiful meals by the water. If food is ultimately going to be the deciding factor, Es Còdol Foradat should be high on your list. Set directly on Migjorn Beach, the chiringuito has the setting covered, but the menu is every bit as memorable. The fresh fish is excellent, as are the croquettes and rice dishes, and you’ll find that now-familiar lobster pasta here too. It also stays open later than many of the island’s beachfront restaurants, so it works just as well for dinner as it does for another very long lunch.
Juan y Andrea
If you’re arriving in Formentera by boat from Ibiza, there’s a good chance Juan y Andrea is already on your radar. The family-run restaurant has been serving lunch on Playa de Illetes since the 1970s and has become something of an island institution. Tables sit right on the sand, boats bob offshore and the people-watching is almost as good as the seafood. Order a paella or seafood pasta, go for a swim between courses and don’t be surprised if lunch takes up most of the afternoon. There are worse ways to spend it.
Where to Stay
Teranka
If you’re looking for one of the most relaxed places to check into on Formentera, Teranka makes a pretty convincing case. Overlooking Playa Migjorn on the island’s southern coast, the boutique hotel has just 35 rooms and suites spread across three low-rise buildings, keeping things intimate even when it’s fully booked. The approach to luxury here mirrors Formentera’s bohemian spirit. It’s relaxed and design-conscious, with wellness playing a big part in the experience. There’s an open-air gym as well as a yoga studio, but you’ll have just as many reasons to focus on the food. It’s excellent, with much of the menu drawing on local ingredients. Our pick would be tapas on the rooftop, preferably timed around sunset.
Dunas de Formentera
With a name like Dunas de Formentera, it would be slightly disappointing if this hotel weren’t sitting right beside the beach. Thankfully, it is. The 41-room property is surrounded by dunes and has direct access to Migjorn Beach, with interiors that lean into the island’s barefoot sensibility without taking the concept too literally. Natural materials are used throughout the design. Think linen and raffia, with a look that’s minimalist without feeling sparse. It also has some serious design credentials behind it, having been created by the team responsible for Mallorca’s much-loved Cap Rocat. Come here when the goal is essentially to spend as little time wearing shoes as possible.
Hannah Formentera
If waking up and walking straight onto the beach is your primary hotel requirement, Hannah Formentera gets very difficult to beat. There are only 18 rooms, and the hotel sits directly on the sea, giving it the feeling of a particularly beautiful beach house rather than a traditional resort. The interiors are airy and understated, with whitewashed walls throughout. Soft, organic shapes keep the design feeling very much at home on the island. Everything feels considered without losing the relaxed quality you came to Formentera for in the first place. And with the Mediterranean practically outside your bedroom door, the location is hard to argue with.
Gecko Hotel & Beach Club
Gecko Formentera feels a little like the French Riviera made its way to Formentera. Set directly on Migjorn Beach, the 30-room hotel is polished and contemporary, but still relaxed enough to make sense on the island. Mornings tend to start with yoga or Pilates before everyone inevitably migrates toward the beach club. There’s an adults-only pool too (Loewe even did a Summer pop-up here!), though we’d make a case for booking one of the Pool Garden rooms and having a private one to yourself. And should you actually feel like leaving the hotel, e-bikes are available for exploring the island, while paddleboards can get you out on the water.
Sabàtic Formentera
Formentera isn’t exactly overflowing with big-name hotel brands, which makes Sabàtic something of an outlier. The Autograph Collection property marked Marriott’s first arrival on the island, although with only 34 rooms, it thankfully hasn’t brought a mega-resort along with it. The hotel is contemporary and full-service, with a rooftop pool overlooking the surrounding landscape and a wellness area with a sauna and Turkish bath. Its beachfront restaurant, CASABLU, brings some Italian influence to a Mediterranean menu, and the hotel can also arrange everything from guided boat trips to local wine tastings. It’s a good option if you want Formentera’s slower pace without giving up quite as many hotel amenities.
What to See
Beach Hop Around the Island
There’s no shortage of beautiful places to lay your towel in Formentera. Start with Playa de Ses Illetes, known for its pale sand and almost suspiciously turquoise water. Get here early, particularly if you’re driving, as parking is limited. On the western coast, Cala Saona has shallow, calm water and is particularly beautiful around sunset, while tiny Caló des Mort is worth the short walk down. Then there’s Cala en Baster, which we almost feel guilty including because part of its appeal is just how quiet it still feels. Almost. The rocky cove is tucked between towering cliffs and looks completely different from Formentera’s sandy beaches. Bring water shoes and not much else.
Wander Through Sant Francesc Xavier
Save a little room in the itinerary for Sant Francesc Xavier, Formentera’s charming main town. The pedestrian streets are made for wandering, with independent boutiques selling local ceramics and beautiful woven pieces along the way. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, there’s also a market behind the town’s whitewashed church, where local makers set up shop.
Visit Far de la Mola Lighthouse
Drive to Formentera’s eastern edge and the landscape gets considerably more dramatic. Far de la Mola, a 19th-century lighthouse, sits at the top of towering cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. It’s worth coming for the view alone, and thankfully, you don’t need to embark on an elaborate hike to see it. There’s parking nearby, along with a handful of shops and bars around La Mola, so it’s easy to turn the drive into an afternoon away from the beach.
Boat to Ibiza
Formentera is very good at convincing you there’s no reason to leave, but with Ibiza sitting just across the water, it would be a shame not to mix things up for a day. Hire a boat and make the short trip across, stopping for a swim somewhere along the way before heading ashore for lunch. Spend the afternoon exploring a few of Ibiza’s beaches and coves, or settle into a beach club (Dua's go-to favorite is Casa Jondal) and stay put until the sun starts to drop. Then it’s back across the water to Formentera, preferably salty, sun-kissed and just in time for dinner.
